Feature Food: Natto

Forged by the samurai - weapon of centenarians.

“A cross between ammonia and rank Camembert cheese”

“Putrid dumpster”

“A hamster cage that needs cleaning”

“Pebble faeces”

These are just some of the animated descriptions for natto that have graced the internet. People from Isaan who savour pla ra turn their nose to natto, weebs don’t even pretend to enjoy it. Unlike its popular fermented Japanese cousins (think miso, soy sauce, and Yakult), natto is unlikely to penetrate the mainstream culinary consciousness. Whilst it is an exemplary superfood, it’s also in the running for 'most valuable player' of stinky-foods.

Photo 1. Natto in its polystyrene domain.

"The threads stretch like cheap mozzarella, yet they are spindly and translucent - spider's silk."

It’s not just the indecent assault on one’s olfactory receptors, it's also how it feels. Runny, slimy, and sticky, thousands of threads bind the soybeans together and so too, your mouth. The threads stretch like cheap mozzarella, yet they are spindly and translucent - spider’s silk. Any novice will be made to look like a dribbling geriatric as the strands droop from lip to table.

Natto advocates share no such disgusting thoughts and typically enjoy its nutty, mucilaginous character on a hot bed of rice alongside other fermented accoutrements like tsukemono and miso shiru. The story goes that a skilled samurai by the name of Hachimantarō of the Minamoto clan had some soybeans boiling away when he was attacked. The beans were jammed into sacks of straw and strapped to his horse - left unknowingly for days. It is said that the warmth of the horse’s body helped with fermentation, leading to the humble discovery of a superfood titan.

Photo 2. Natto served on rice with raw egg and scallion.

These days soybeans are jabbed with the bacterial culture Bacillus subtilis. Fermentation of this versatile legume produces a tonne of probiotics which are magic for gut flora. In Japan, this slippery assemblage of unassuming beans is most known to enhance blood flow and reduce the risk of stroke.

Amongst the plethora of natto’s health benefits, the most striking is that it is by far the most abundant source of Vitamin K2 in any food - key for optimising bone health and fighting concerns like osteoporosis.

Incorporating natto and other fermented soy products into one’s diet is often hailed as one of the elixirs for Japanese longevity. Keen to now give it a go?

Photo 3. Differences between the choices of natto at a supermarket include the size and shape of beans, the variety of soybeans, and where they are sourced.

Ibis Award: One. Besides being an extraordinary repository of vitamins and good bacteria, natto is a great tapas-like side which can accompany grilled fish. It can also be your no-prep no-shame meal for those on the run. Just don't take it to work!

Ibis Tip: Add an extra dash of soy sauce to make your natto experience a bit darker and saltier. This will help those not yet sold on the smell and taste. On the other hand, if you have a penchant for toothsome phlegm-like substances, pair it with some blanched okra for a double-whammy of slime. Plop in raw egg for the hardcore ones.

Ibis Tip: Find them in the frozen aisles of Asian groceries. They usually come in packs of 4 and only cost a few dollars.

Ibis Tip: Although natto is often eaten as a part of a traditional Japanese breakfast, it is said that consumption at night is far better to reap the benefits of its nutrients and bacterial goodness.